From Nairobi in the 1950s to Southall, London, our culinary journey embodies passion and heritage. Originating with my grandfather Bishen Dass, a renowned chef for maharajas, Brilliant became a landmark in Kenya. Under my grandfather's tutelage, my father Gulu imbibed culinary secrets, shaping our family's approach to food. Though I never met my grandfather, his legacy lives on in my dad's tales—stories of a life devoted to spreading joy through food.
Amidst political turmoil in Kenya, my family relocated to the UK. Determined to preserve the Brilliant legacy, they started small catering gigs from their garage. In 1975, my father and uncle Kewal established The Brilliant in Southall, starting as a modest 36-seat eatery. The restaurant's success burgeoned, expanding to accommodate a growing clientele. My mother, Shushma, joined in 1979, contributing significantly to our success.
Born into this culinary realm in 1984, alongside my brother Shanks in 1986, we were immersed in gastronomy from childhood. Weekends at the restaurant were not just about helping; they were my early education in a legacy of flavors and service. Raised in The Brilliant's kitchens, hospitality became my calling, ingrained in my DNA.
My grandfather, Bishen Dass, with his boundless energy and dedication, was at the heart of our family's culinary empire. While he masterfully orchestrated the kitchen and business at the Brilliant in Nairobi, he was the ever-present force that bound everything together. Stories of his ability to cook for tens of thousands at once aren't just tales of culinary prowess, but of his immense organisational skills and his deep commitment to service.Grandfather was not only a gifted chef who had cooked for maharajas but was also a pillar in the Nairobi community. In the bustling environment of the 1950s along Nagara Road, where the Brilliant was a beacon of hospitality and gastronomic excellence, he was a figure larger than life. His culinary creations weren’t just meals; they were grand feasts that drew together people from all walks of life. He was adept at scaling his recipes, a rare skill that allowed him to transition from intimate gatherings to cooking for thousands without compromising on flavour or quality. This ability made the Brilliant an ideal venue for large-scale events, including weddings and social galas, many of which he offered to host at no cost for families in need.This generosity was a reflection of his character, deeply rooted in the belief that hospitality was a way of life and a means to give back to the community. Such acts of kindness made him a revered figure, not just among those in the culinary world but also across the broader society, including political leaders and influential figures of the time. People like Jomo Kenyatta, who later became Kenya’s first president, were known to frequent the Brilliant, drawn by both the allure of its food and its reputation as a gathering place for Nairobi's elite and everyday folk alike.Through these gatherings, my grandfather shaped a legacy of generosity, skill, and community engagement that transcends generations. Although I never met him, the vivid anecdotes my father shares paint a rich, detailed picture of a man who was not only a culinary genius but also a compassionate and astute leader. My dad inherited his passion, hard work, and giving nature, embodying the spirit of his father in every dish he prepares and in every decision he makes at our own version of the Brilliant here in the UK. Through them, I am connected to a past that continues to inspire and drive our family forward in the world of hospitality.
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9th June 2024. 7pm promptly. At: Brilliant Restaurant, Southall